Left Jeremy Spector with Javier Sarmiento
NEW YORK- His ingredients and cooking techniques translate into extraordinarily patron friendly plates.
Jeremy Spector, who has run The Brindle Room, in the East village for nearly a decade, demonstrates how a culinary wizard with hands on creative vision makes dining out fun.
Everything and everybody, including suggestion from his guests, inspire the menu, which changes three times a year, except for a few signature staples.
You’ll find sharable portions of what has been called “eclectic comfort food.”
Open for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch, this “ gastro pub” offers an innovative approach to American classics such as French toast, fried chicken and barbecue pork while also featuring some international favorites, such as Canadian inspired poutine and vegetarian friendly salads and pasta.
Spector talks about the dishes on his menu with a gusto that will make your mouth water and you stomach leap to attention.
Take for instance what he calls the “ World famous Brindle Burger.” It’s an unabashed combination of aged and fresh meat, with a heft of fat molded into a perfect patty seared in a hot cast iron skillet to create a crispy coat. Then it’s crowned with a pile of caramelized onions and molten cheese. It’s been included in a definitive list of New York’s City’ best burgers.
But Spector says he’s not out to get rave reviews from critics, though he’s had his share. More important to him are his loyal clientele who appreciate his care in the kitchen and the welcoming atmosphere.
After many incarnations in restaurants, Spector still puts in arduous hours, but is assisted now by an extraordinary crew and his wife Katia, a sommelier, responsible for the thoughtful wine list.
A native New Yorker, who has lived in both San Francisco and Oklahoma, Spector refers to The Brindle Room as “a neighborhood joint.” He’s proud that this dining room is a diverse cross-section of young and old patrons, and marvels that travelers from Europe, the Middle East, Russia and just about everywhere “ find their way to our little place.”
Spector says he decided to donate meals to The Chef’s Table, because the idea of food being “ approachable for everybody” feeds into his egalitarian philosophy.” And it’s good business" he says, unconcerned about an “ immediate payoff" observing he prefers to adopt “a world view, and make it local.”
Sur Lie, a hip tapa style eatery in Portland Maine, is among a growing national list of restaurants that demonstrates a commitment to both craft and community.
In New England it is a shining example of success.
Sur Lie has developed a loyal following and garnered local and national awards since it opened its doors five years ago. Much of its acclaim is attributed to its creative combinations of taste and texture in eclectic dishes and drinks you won’t find anywhere else.
Sur lie offers “American contemporary” cooking-derived from a melting pot of influences. The menu contains gems, such as seared Maine scallops served with white sweet potato puree, pickled red onion, and pineapple mojo lime.
A plate with organic parsnips and eggs, leeks and carrot caramel includes a stunning surprise of blue spruce ash, and pea tendrils.
Sweet pea hummus, made with lemon Sabayon and a touch of mint oil, served with a crispy lavish is a restaurant cult classic..
Diners find joy in building sharable plates in robust portions. They sample interesting global wines and beers-with regional choices too. And then there are the creative cocktails.
But Sur Lie is about much more than its food and drinks.
Listening to owner Krista Cole ( who three years ago was predictably named "a rising star” by the Maine Restaurant Association) is inspiring.
She talks about giving her guests an “experience” and about Sur Lie’s “team," referring them to as “family.”
Cole and her partner, Antonio Alviar, who were born in rural Maine, met as young waiters at a Bar Harbor restaurant.
Cole mentions the values they incorporate into their business, reflected in their use of locally sourced ingredients that include cheese from small dairies, produce from farmers and fish caught along the Maine Coast. Last count Sur Lie had a list of almost thirty small vendors.
Cole says she believes in contributing to a greater good.
Her apparent nurturing may be related to her background in nursing.
She spent some time as a traveling nurse while Alviar honed his food and beverage skills before the couple settled in Denver Colorado where Cole studied business in graduate school. After spending time in Denver, they decided to return to their Maine roots and open Sur Lie.
The rest is history, but the story is still being written.
Cole, who serves on the board of a Portland service organization, sees Sur Lie as a platform for bigger things. She says she wants to make a larger impact on everyday lives - to lead by example and to change the system and the world-for the better.
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Krista Cole and Antonio Alviar of Sur Lie restaurant Portland, Maine
Ben Bostdorf creates The Chef’s Table
WHO
Ben Bostdorf
WHAT
While polishing off “the most amazing bowl of gazpacho” at Veggie Planet in Harvard Square, Bostdorf was hit with a revelation – many people, financially strapped, would never have the chance to experience this dish or other culinary luxuries. Overcome by the realization, Bostdorf, a Marblehead-based writer, decided to create something positive: The Chef’s Table, a program that grants disadvantaged families with gift cards to various high-end restaurants along the North Shore. With the help of North Shore Community Action Programs (NSCAP), Bostdorf plans to send one family every month out for a fine-dining experience, starting in September.
Q. You work, first and foremost, as a writer. Why the interest in food?
A. My mom was a food critic for the Portland Press Herald in the ’80s and my dad was the executive chef at The Sonesta hotel, so I’ve been around food my entire life. I remember my father giving leftovers in the alley behind The Sonesta. Homeless people would congregate outside the back [of the hotel] and at the end of the evening, he’d give them any food that was left over. I was brought up in that environment of being socially conscious.
Q. How did your idea for The Chef’s Table come to fruition after your meal at Veggie Planet?
A. I left feeling depressed, I got back to Marblehead feeling disenchanted with the politics. I started thinking, there may not be enough [opportunities] for everyone, but that doesn’t mean individuals can’t have extraordinary experiences. I got in touch with NSCAP, which is a state agency that serves one thousand different families in the North Shore, and they thought it was a great concept. It exploded; the response I got was just amazing.
Q. Why do you think it’s important for families to experience fine dining?
A. Exposure is everything. I remember being exposed to [fine dining] as a kid and how much it changed my perception of life. It creates the feeling that life is a positive thing. This is something outside of necessity – it’s an experience that kids can see as a positive thing. This is an experience for families to have meals and memories they [otherwise] wouldn’t be able to.
Q. Do you have a business mantra?
A. The way I initially got the idea [for The Chef’s Table] was from a quote from James Beard: “Food is our common ground, a universal experience.” There’s no reason why there can’t be experiences that are wonderful for the individual.
Q. If you could choose one meal to share with these families, what would it be and why?
A. My dad’s clam chowder. It’s the most amazing culinary experience. He won an award in Maine for the best clam chowder; he won’t tell anyone the recipe to this day.
Q. What’s next?
A. We’re starting the program in September, the first family is
going to The Adriatic in Salem. Right now we’re in the North Shore, but we want to get into Boston to expand. We’re confident this is going to be great, and you know, the sky’s the
limit.
Jessica Teich
Interview has been edited and condensed. Jessica Teich can be reached at jessica.teich@
globe.com
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